The American Home, the school in Vladimir, Russia where I taught from August 2005-June 2006, is urgently in need of two teachers, as two of this year's teachers must return home due to family illnesses. It was a great place to work, and while the salary is not large, it is plenty to live on in Vladimir. If you are interested, please let me know.
Monday, September 08, 2008
Saturday, October 20, 2007
I'm going to Kyrgyzstan!
In case anyone still checks this blog for Russia-related updates, I just wanted to let you know that I'll be moving to Kyrgyzstan in January 2008! I'll be blogging about Kyrgyzstan on Jane's Daily Blah; posts tagged with Kyrgyzstan can be found here. Enjoy!
Sunday, August 05, 2007
About this site.
From Russia With Blog was the location at which I blogged from August 2005 through June 2006, during which point in time I was living and working in the city of Vladimir, Russia at an organization called the American Home. This blog chronicles the day to day adventures of me and my friends, as well as the stories of our travels around Russia. Feel free to browse around the archives and discover what life in Russia is like.
If you are interested in photographs of Russia, the following links to my photo-galleries may be of interest:
If you are interested in reading the stories of particular trips,
you may be interested in the following links:
you may be interested in the following links:
You might also be interested in this:
Additionally, if you are interested in following my post-Russia adventures, I can be found at Jane's Daily Blah. Thanks for stopping by!
Saturday, July 21, 2007
Putin's Russia: All this has happened before, all this will happen again
Before I begin this post, I want to provide a little bit of my personal background in this area so you’ll know where I’m coming from. When I was in college, I double majored in Russian (language and culture) and international politics (with a focus on US-Russian relations). I earned my degree in 2001, and since then I’ve simply been a dilettante when it comes to studying these topics. I am by no means an expert. I am also not a sociologist. I’ve never taken any classes in sociology, so all of my ideas pertaining to group behavior which I’ll present here are simply based on my personal observations on the ways people behave.
The first thing you need to know about my little theory is that I’m a believer in cyclical history. As they say in Battlestar Galactica’ religious philosophy, all of this has happened before, all of this will happen again. From examining my own life and the patterns (both good and bad) which continue repeating themselves, to examining historical patterns – in which humanity doesn’t seem to learn from it’s mistakes – it appears obvious to me that there are patterns of behavior visible throughout history. It would also seem to make sense that people from one culture would follow patterns of behavior different from people of another culture. (In other words, just because the USA follows one set of political behavioral patterns, it doesn’t follow that all other countries in the world should easily adhere to the same patterns. This would be one reason why Bush’s ideas for turning Iraq into a Middle Eastern bastion of democracy didn’t fly quite like the administration thought it would.)
In 2000, while studying Russian politics and history (in Russia, actually), I began to notice patterns which really stuck in my mind – to the point that I decided to write my senior honors thesis on it the following year. Don’t worry, I won’t subject you to the entire thing; it makes for quite dull reading. Instead, let me give you an interesting timeline to muse on:
• Approximately 1040AD – The Medieval monarch Iaroslav the Wise of Kievan Rus (the early Russian state) implements a written code of laws dealing with retribution for murder, accidental death or injury, reimbursement and repayment of debts, recovery of stolen property, etc, in an unbiased legal fashion. This code of laws applied only to free males (although free males did exist in all strata of society) but nonetheless it was remarkably advanced for its time.
• The Boyar Duma and veche traditions begin. The Boyar Duma was a council of nobles, which was created to advise the prince in all matters. The veche was a public gathering of free citizens from all strata of society which gathered regularly to voice their opinions. While the princes weren’t required to consult with the veche like they were the Duma, they often did nontheless.
At this point in time, Kievan Rus was the most liberal state in Medieval Europe. Then something happened in 1223AD to totally squash liberal democratic political movements: the Mongols invaded. Dictatorship of princes who kowtowed to the Mongols began, and these dictators (erm, Tsars) retained their power after the Mongols had finally been kicked to the curb. (I should point out that the Kievan province of Novgorod was able to maintain independence from the Mongol rule by negotiating a tribute system. This enabled even greater political advances in Novgorod than had happened in Kievan Rus: the Duma and veche dismissed the prince and elected their own leaders. This lasted until the late 15th century when Ivan III sent troops from Moscow to utterly crush Novgorod and bring the province under the mantle of Moscow.)
Until the 19th century, there was nothing remotely democratic to be found within Russia. The 19th century saw the following:
• The Decembrist Revolt of 1825 – Russian Army officers refused to acknowledge the legitimacy of the new Tsar and tried to bring about a revolt to topple the Tsardom and replace it with a constitution. It failed miserably. The top leaders were publicly hanged and the others were exiled to Siberia.
• 1855 – Tsar Alexander II takes the throne. He allowed a relaxation in restrictions enabling various interest groups to form throughout Russia. These groups enabled people of all strata to organize around various political/social issues.
• 1861- Tsar Alexander II emancipates the serfs
• 1864 – Tsar Alexander II passes the Zemstvo Statute. This created a system of local councils, or zemstva, the members of which were elected directly by nobles and middle class townsmen, and indirectly by the peasantry (former serfs). This was the first time that all classes of Russian society had any say in Imperial Russian government. In 1864, the Tsar also established an independent court system modeled on western styles of jurisprudence.
• Near the end of his reign, Alexander II was seriously considering implementing an elected body akin to a parliament, whose role would be to advise the Tsar. This was still under consideration at the time of his death.
• 1881 – Alexander II was assassinated.
The new Tsar, Alexander III was wholly uninterested in reforms, the development of representative government, or in anything else which might erode his power. While he didn’t dismantle any of the reforms put in place by his father, he prevented further reforms and strengthened the autocracy.
In 1894, Alexander III died and Nicholas II assumed the throne. He held the same autocratic views as his father, although he didn’t have the same strength necessary to quell reformers.
The first thing you need to know about my little theory is that I’m a believer in cyclical history. As they say in Battlestar Galactica’ religious philosophy, all of this has happened before, all of this will happen again. From examining my own life and the patterns (both good and bad) which continue repeating themselves, to examining historical patterns – in which humanity doesn’t seem to learn from it’s mistakes – it appears obvious to me that there are patterns of behavior visible throughout history. It would also seem to make sense that people from one culture would follow patterns of behavior different from people of another culture. (In other words, just because the USA follows one set of political behavioral patterns, it doesn’t follow that all other countries in the world should easily adhere to the same patterns. This would be one reason why Bush’s ideas for turning Iraq into a Middle Eastern bastion of democracy didn’t fly quite like the administration thought it would.)
In 2000, while studying Russian politics and history (in Russia, actually), I began to notice patterns which really stuck in my mind – to the point that I decided to write my senior honors thesis on it the following year. Don’t worry, I won’t subject you to the entire thing; it makes for quite dull reading. Instead, let me give you an interesting timeline to muse on:
• Approximately 1040AD – The Medieval monarch Iaroslav the Wise of Kievan Rus (the early Russian state) implements a written code of laws dealing with retribution for murder, accidental death or injury, reimbursement and repayment of debts, recovery of stolen property, etc, in an unbiased legal fashion. This code of laws applied only to free males (although free males did exist in all strata of society) but nonetheless it was remarkably advanced for its time.
• The Boyar Duma and veche traditions begin. The Boyar Duma was a council of nobles, which was created to advise the prince in all matters. The veche was a public gathering of free citizens from all strata of society which gathered regularly to voice their opinions. While the princes weren’t required to consult with the veche like they were the Duma, they often did nontheless.
At this point in time, Kievan Rus was the most liberal state in Medieval Europe. Then something happened in 1223AD to totally squash liberal democratic political movements: the Mongols invaded. Dictatorship of princes who kowtowed to the Mongols began, and these dictators (erm, Tsars) retained their power after the Mongols had finally been kicked to the curb. (I should point out that the Kievan province of Novgorod was able to maintain independence from the Mongol rule by negotiating a tribute system. This enabled even greater political advances in Novgorod than had happened in Kievan Rus: the Duma and veche dismissed the prince and elected their own leaders. This lasted until the late 15th century when Ivan III sent troops from Moscow to utterly crush Novgorod and bring the province under the mantle of Moscow.)
Until the 19th century, there was nothing remotely democratic to be found within Russia. The 19th century saw the following:
• The Decembrist Revolt of 1825 – Russian Army officers refused to acknowledge the legitimacy of the new Tsar and tried to bring about a revolt to topple the Tsardom and replace it with a constitution. It failed miserably. The top leaders were publicly hanged and the others were exiled to Siberia.
• 1855 – Tsar Alexander II takes the throne. He allowed a relaxation in restrictions enabling various interest groups to form throughout Russia. These groups enabled people of all strata to organize around various political/social issues.
• 1861- Tsar Alexander II emancipates the serfs
• 1864 – Tsar Alexander II passes the Zemstvo Statute. This created a system of local councils, or zemstva, the members of which were elected directly by nobles and middle class townsmen, and indirectly by the peasantry (former serfs). This was the first time that all classes of Russian society had any say in Imperial Russian government. In 1864, the Tsar also established an independent court system modeled on western styles of jurisprudence.
• Near the end of his reign, Alexander II was seriously considering implementing an elected body akin to a parliament, whose role would be to advise the Tsar. This was still under consideration at the time of his death.
• 1881 – Alexander II was assassinated.
The new Tsar, Alexander III was wholly uninterested in reforms, the development of representative government, or in anything else which might erode his power. While he didn’t dismantle any of the reforms put in place by his father, he prevented further reforms and strengthened the autocracy.
In 1894, Alexander III died and Nicholas II assumed the throne. He held the same autocratic views as his father, although he didn’t have the same strength necessary to quell reformers.
Under Nicholas II, the following happened:
• 1904 – the National Congress of Zemstva was held. They gave Nicholas II a document demanding individual rights, civil equality, freedom of the press and of assembly, and the development of a legislative system. The Tsar essentially told them to take a hike.
• December 1904-January 1905 – A peaceful strike led by leaders of a newly created union was fired upon by Imperial troops. Reports ranged from 96 dead to several thousand dead, depending on the source. No one really knows for sure.
• October 1905 - St. Petersburg Council (Soviet) of Workers was formed as a representative of the working classes, in an attempt to increase their rights. The Soviet gained so much support, that Nicholas II realized he had to concede somewhat to their demands in order to retain his throne. He signed the October Manifesto, which granted various individual freedoms and created a Duma (parliament).
• 1906 – The first Duma elections were held. The make-up of the first parliament was so liberal that Nicholas II dissolved it and called for new elections. The second Duma was elected… and was even more liberal than the first. Nicholas II dissolved it as well.
• 1907 – Nicholas II changed the property qualifications for voting – meaning that only the nobles could vote for Duma representatives – leading to the election of a very conservative and weak third Duma.
• March 1917 – fed up with Nicholas II and his lack of willingness to allow reforms, the masses finally rise up and revolt. A provisional government was formed, which intended to create a democratic state.
This seemed pretty promising… but a democratic government can’t pop into place over night. Given the needs of the masses and the weaknesses in the infrastructure the provisional government inherited, the masses were not content, despite the regime change. The inability to placate the masses led to continued revolution…
• October 1917 – the Bolsheviks (under Lenin) led a revolt against the provisional government, leading to three years of civil war, culminating in the establishment of the Soviet Union.
• 1927 – Stalin takes control. Political participation was forcibly limited to state-sponsored activities.
Certainly there were acts of opposition to the Soviet government during the decades of its regime, but they were not organized democratic participatory acts. At least not until Gorbachev arrived.
• 1985 – Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Soviet Union. Policies of glastnost and perestroika were implemented. Glastnost was the making known to the masses of everything that had been kept from public knowledge throughout the existence of the Soviet Union. Perestroika was as a restructuring of the Soviet system, in order to establish a democratic and self-governing system. Censorship was relaxed, organizations were allowed to form, and people began discussing their political situation.
• In the late 1980s, elections which seemed quite democratic were held… the Soviet Union seemed to be slowly turning into a democracy. But, things were moving slowly and the masses didn’t want to wait.
• 1991 – Boris Yeltsin leads a coup, effectively ending the Soviet Union. Yeltsin becomes president of the Russian Federation.
At this point in time, everyone in the west hailed this as a great victory for democracy and capitalism, and seemed to believe that from here on out Russia would be a booming capitalist democracy much like the US. People seem so damn surprised that it’s not. Well, seriously. Look at Russia’s history. Look at how Russia’s people will be content for decades – even centuries – under a repressive regime, only rising up and revolting when things finally become intolerable. Most of the time the masses are apathetic. Take a look at how nearly ALL of the democratic reforms that have occurred over there through the ages were implemented AT THE TOP, when an enlightened leader (Iaroslav, Alexander II, Gorbachev) felt that the country needed more political participation/reforms. Notice how when government leaders try to slowly implement reforms in a nice, logical manner, this leads to either revolt from below of quashing from above. Russia is the most stable under strong, authoritarian leaders. Why is the current situation in Russia a surprise to anyone?
Here’s a bit of an anecdotal story about the apathy of the Russian masses, and how they differ in political behavior from your average American citizen. Under the Soviet Union, a centralized system was created to provide hot water to the masses. Most Russians still get their hot water from central hot water sources. This means that for most of the year, your average Russian has unlimited hot water. Unfortunately, for a few weeks to a month or so every summer, the hot water is shut off for routine maintenance. That’s a few weeks to a month or so of no hot water. (And let me tell you, cold tap water in Russia – even in the summer – is REALLY cold.) Now, obviously in the US the government doesn’t supply us with hot water… but just imagine for a moment that it did. Imagine for a moment how the populace would react if every summer there was a month or so of no hot water. People would be writing/calling/emailing/visiting everyone from their local city council to their state and national representatives, lobbying to get this situation remedied ASAP. You know what the Russians do when the hot water goes out? They simply deal with it.
• 1904 – the National Congress of Zemstva was held. They gave Nicholas II a document demanding individual rights, civil equality, freedom of the press and of assembly, and the development of a legislative system. The Tsar essentially told them to take a hike.
• December 1904-January 1905 – A peaceful strike led by leaders of a newly created union was fired upon by Imperial troops. Reports ranged from 96 dead to several thousand dead, depending on the source. No one really knows for sure.
• October 1905 - St. Petersburg Council (Soviet) of Workers was formed as a representative of the working classes, in an attempt to increase their rights. The Soviet gained so much support, that Nicholas II realized he had to concede somewhat to their demands in order to retain his throne. He signed the October Manifesto, which granted various individual freedoms and created a Duma (parliament).
• 1906 – The first Duma elections were held. The make-up of the first parliament was so liberal that Nicholas II dissolved it and called for new elections. The second Duma was elected… and was even more liberal than the first. Nicholas II dissolved it as well.
• 1907 – Nicholas II changed the property qualifications for voting – meaning that only the nobles could vote for Duma representatives – leading to the election of a very conservative and weak third Duma.
• March 1917 – fed up with Nicholas II and his lack of willingness to allow reforms, the masses finally rise up and revolt. A provisional government was formed, which intended to create a democratic state.
This seemed pretty promising… but a democratic government can’t pop into place over night. Given the needs of the masses and the weaknesses in the infrastructure the provisional government inherited, the masses were not content, despite the regime change. The inability to placate the masses led to continued revolution…
• October 1917 – the Bolsheviks (under Lenin) led a revolt against the provisional government, leading to three years of civil war, culminating in the establishment of the Soviet Union.
• 1927 – Stalin takes control. Political participation was forcibly limited to state-sponsored activities.
Certainly there were acts of opposition to the Soviet government during the decades of its regime, but they were not organized democratic participatory acts. At least not until Gorbachev arrived.
• 1985 – Gorbachev becomes General Secretary of the Soviet Union. Policies of glastnost and perestroika were implemented. Glastnost was the making known to the masses of everything that had been kept from public knowledge throughout the existence of the Soviet Union. Perestroika was as a restructuring of the Soviet system, in order to establish a democratic and self-governing system. Censorship was relaxed, organizations were allowed to form, and people began discussing their political situation.
• In the late 1980s, elections which seemed quite democratic were held… the Soviet Union seemed to be slowly turning into a democracy. But, things were moving slowly and the masses didn’t want to wait.
• 1991 – Boris Yeltsin leads a coup, effectively ending the Soviet Union. Yeltsin becomes president of the Russian Federation.
At this point in time, everyone in the west hailed this as a great victory for democracy and capitalism, and seemed to believe that from here on out Russia would be a booming capitalist democracy much like the US. People seem so damn surprised that it’s not. Well, seriously. Look at Russia’s history. Look at how Russia’s people will be content for decades – even centuries – under a repressive regime, only rising up and revolting when things finally become intolerable. Most of the time the masses are apathetic. Take a look at how nearly ALL of the democratic reforms that have occurred over there through the ages were implemented AT THE TOP, when an enlightened leader (Iaroslav, Alexander II, Gorbachev) felt that the country needed more political participation/reforms. Notice how when government leaders try to slowly implement reforms in a nice, logical manner, this leads to either revolt from below of quashing from above. Russia is the most stable under strong, authoritarian leaders. Why is the current situation in Russia a surprise to anyone?
Here’s a bit of an anecdotal story about the apathy of the Russian masses, and how they differ in political behavior from your average American citizen. Under the Soviet Union, a centralized system was created to provide hot water to the masses. Most Russians still get their hot water from central hot water sources. This means that for most of the year, your average Russian has unlimited hot water. Unfortunately, for a few weeks to a month or so every summer, the hot water is shut off for routine maintenance. That’s a few weeks to a month or so of no hot water. (And let me tell you, cold tap water in Russia – even in the summer – is REALLY cold.) Now, obviously in the US the government doesn’t supply us with hot water… but just imagine for a moment that it did. Imagine for a moment how the populace would react if every summer there was a month or so of no hot water. People would be writing/calling/emailing/visiting everyone from their local city council to their state and national representatives, lobbying to get this situation remedied ASAP. You know what the Russians do when the hot water goes out? They simply deal with it.
Saturday, July 01, 2006
From Russia to America
[This post is cross-posted with Jane's Daily Blah]
My last full day in Russia was, in many ways, a normal day. I went to the AH, spent some quality time on the internet, and hung out with Brooke, Youngmee, Kelli, Misha, Layla and Asya. We ate leftovers from the previous day’s party and (for the most part) just sat around listening to music, talking and enjoying each others company. At the end of the day (after Kelli and Layla had gone home) the rest of us took one final walk together down Bolshaya Moscovskaya to Pushkin Park, around the cathedrals and then back to the AH, at which point it was time to say goodbye. The others were going off in a different direction from me, so I waved them goodbye from the sidewalk as their marshrutka drove away. While I know that I *will* see these people again, it is so unfathomably strange to think about not seeing them on a daily basis and no knowing when I will actually see them again in the flesh.
Misha, me, Youngmee, Brooke
Brooke, Youngmee, Misha, me
My last evening at home with Nina Mikhailovna was no different than normal – other than the fact that all of my possessions were packed into two giant suitcases and one large carry-on. And I set my alarm for 3:00am instead of my usual 10:00am. Luckily for me, Nina M. set her alarm as well, as I managed to turn mine off in my sleep without waking up. I was awakened at 4:00am by Nina M. The AH had arranged for my ride to the airport to pick me up at 4:30am. I was already feeling stressed about my lack of time to make my final preparations when my ride arrived at 4:10! Ahh well – I made it out of there alright, and I don’t *think* I forgot anything. Kelli rode with me to the airport, as her sister was flying into Sheremetyevo about an hour after I took off. Unlike my last trip to the airport (which took something like six hours and had me checking in while my plane was boarding...) this trip was uneventful and we made it to the airport in record time. Of course, this meant that I got to stand around for two and a half hours before they let me check in, but better early than late!
I flew from Moscow to Paris on an Air France flight operated by Aeroflot. I was a little leery of traveling with them again after the last time, but what could I do? It turned out that the plane from Moscow to Paris was a much nicer plane than the one I flew in from Poland to Moscow back in August. Definitely newer, cleaner and classier. The French influence, perhaps? Anyhow, I’d heard some horror stories about transfers in the Charles du Galle airport in Paris, and I was glad that I had a three hour layover. While I do admit that the airport was confusing to navigate (I’m sure it’s impossible to do so quickly, although supposedly they’re installing a new transit-train which should improve things) I actually enjoyed my time in the airport. All of the staff were incredibly friendly. It wasn’t just that I’d come from eleven months in surly Russia. These people were far more outgoing, friendly and helpful than pretty much anyone I’ve ever encountered in a service industry. And it didn’t hurt that a lot of these friendly and outgoing people were also hot, flirty French fellows with sexy French accents.
By the time I got on the plane I was feeling pretty exhausted, and as soon as we boarded I passed out. As such, I didn’t realize until we were approaching Atlanta that we had taken off from Paris an hour late (which is kind of odd, considering that we boarded on time). Every one around me seemed to be feeling frantic, worrying about whether or not they’d be able to make their connecting flights in Atlanta. Meanwhile, I felt calm and relaxed, and took a bunch of pictures of clouds. (I would just like to mention that the food on Air France was DELICIOUS. I usually tolerate airplane food just fine, but I’ve never in my life considered any of it to be delicious. Well, this stuff certainly was a tasty treat – two incredibly yummy meals.)
This was my view.
The splotchy discolorations are from ice crystals on the window.
Again, my view.
When the plane landed in Atlanta, before they let us off, there was an announcement. “Passenger Jane Keeler, please see a Delta Ground Staff representative for a message.” Great. (Delta is partners with Air France, BTW) As soon as I stepped off the plane, there was a man waiting at the gate with a sign bearing my name and my message: “Your mother is going to be late. Please wait for her.” Um, okay. Where would I go, anyway? I went through passport control and then to baggage claim. My big ass green suitcase arrived promptly... and then I stood and waited and waited and waited for my black one. You know, the one that didn’t make it to Moscow on my way *to* Russia. Just as I was getting ready to go look for someone for some assistance, there was another announcement. “Jane Keeler, please see a Delta Ground Staff representative for a message.” Of course, my thought was yes, yes, I know; my mother is going to be late. But it turned out that this message was, “You black suitcase is still in Paris.” WTF?! I had a three hour layover! How did the bag not make it on the plane? But, they told me exactly where to go and what to do in order to get the bag tracked down and shipped to me. (Yes, unlike LOT Polish / Aeroflot, Air France / Delta delivers.) Anyway, I emerged from the pit of the airport and found my mother, who had arrived before me anyway due to the delay of my flight. Then we stood in an interminably long line at the lost luggage counter so I could file my claim. Supposedly my suitcase will be delivered tomorrow. I hope!
At that point it was after 9:30pm Atlanta time (5:00am Vladimir time!) and both my mom and I were feeling pretty wiped out, although we began our trek down to Waycross nonetheless. We drove for about an hour and a half, and stopped to eat at the one thing in south Georgia that’s open at 11:00pm: Waffle House! Our first attempt to eat at a Waffle House was thwarted by the fact that the first one we stopped at was closed. WTF? Waffle Houses never close! But apparently something was being done to the floor, and it was closed for the next two hours. But never fear, there was a Waffle House at the next exit. Thus, my first meal upon returning to the States was an incredibly greasy grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of grits with cheese. No wonder so many Americans are obese. Even though it was pretty late, the restaurant was packed, probably due to the fact that the other one was closed. As a result we were in there for an hour. So, two cups of coffee and way too much grease later, we got back on the road and drove for something like three more hours; it was shortly after 3:00am when we pulled into my mom’s driveway. I dragged myself inside and promptly collapsed into bed. That’s 31 hours after I was awakened in Vladimir by Nina Mikhailovna, folks.
I expected to sleep for something like 15 straight hours, but annoyingly my body still thinks it’s on Vladimir time, and I ended up getting up around 7:00am. My mom and I got dressed and set out to my new house, so I could see it in real life for the first time. Mom seemed really worried that I wasn’t going to like my house or that I would be disappointed with it or something, but I love it! Granted, Terry (our contractor) is still there doing work on it, and afterwards there’s still going to be a lot that needs to be done (cleaning the kitchen and bathroom, painting over all that horrible wood paneling, and refinishing the living/dining room floor) but the house is really wonderful. Not to mention that I have a green couch (more olive than lime, but still awesome) and the world’s largest kitchen. I simply cannot fathom why someone would build a kitchen that’s that enormous. Not that I’m complaining or anything; it’s just strange. I’ve got a dining table and chairs set up in the corner of the kitchen and they hardly make a dent in the space. I’m going to use the “dining” room as my office. The neighborhood definitely isn’t the best, and I hope the fact that I’m the only white person for miles doesn’t cause me any problems, but I love it.
My house :-)
That's Terry the Contractor's truck out front.
I'll get a decent pic of the place someday when it's not parked there.
There are Js on the shutters.
Unfortunately, because of where my head is,
it kind of looks like a T in this shot.
Apparently, I live on the corner of Ass and Ass.
Luckily, I find this highly amusing.
I was standing in my kitchen door when i took this.
Thes space in the foreground is supposed to be the dining room,
but it's going to be my office. The living room is in the rear.
Be sure to note the green couch!!
Reverse shot: from the front door in the living room,
facing the office and the door to the kitchen.
My bedroom, complete with $20 bed. Yard sales rock.
Isn't this kitchen ridiculously big?
You can't even see all of it in this picture!
Hell, just this part alone would be a big kitchen.
After seeing the house, we went out and purchased some things for it: two fans (for the living/office rooms), a mattress cover, and cleaning supplies. Then I returned to my mom’s house and took a very lengthy nap.
Misha, me, Youngmee, Brooke
Brooke, Youngmee, Misha, me
My last evening at home with Nina Mikhailovna was no different than normal – other than the fact that all of my possessions were packed into two giant suitcases and one large carry-on. And I set my alarm for 3:00am instead of my usual 10:00am. Luckily for me, Nina M. set her alarm as well, as I managed to turn mine off in my sleep without waking up. I was awakened at 4:00am by Nina M. The AH had arranged for my ride to the airport to pick me up at 4:30am. I was already feeling stressed about my lack of time to make my final preparations when my ride arrived at 4:10! Ahh well – I made it out of there alright, and I don’t *think* I forgot anything. Kelli rode with me to the airport, as her sister was flying into Sheremetyevo about an hour after I took off. Unlike my last trip to the airport (which took something like six hours and had me checking in while my plane was boarding...) this trip was uneventful and we made it to the airport in record time. Of course, this meant that I got to stand around for two and a half hours before they let me check in, but better early than late!
I flew from Moscow to Paris on an Air France flight operated by Aeroflot. I was a little leery of traveling with them again after the last time, but what could I do? It turned out that the plane from Moscow to Paris was a much nicer plane than the one I flew in from Poland to Moscow back in August. Definitely newer, cleaner and classier. The French influence, perhaps? Anyhow, I’d heard some horror stories about transfers in the Charles du Galle airport in Paris, and I was glad that I had a three hour layover. While I do admit that the airport was confusing to navigate (I’m sure it’s impossible to do so quickly, although supposedly they’re installing a new transit-train which should improve things) I actually enjoyed my time in the airport. All of the staff were incredibly friendly. It wasn’t just that I’d come from eleven months in surly Russia. These people were far more outgoing, friendly and helpful than pretty much anyone I’ve ever encountered in a service industry. And it didn’t hurt that a lot of these friendly and outgoing people were also hot, flirty French fellows with sexy French accents.
By the time I got on the plane I was feeling pretty exhausted, and as soon as we boarded I passed out. As such, I didn’t realize until we were approaching Atlanta that we had taken off from Paris an hour late (which is kind of odd, considering that we boarded on time). Every one around me seemed to be feeling frantic, worrying about whether or not they’d be able to make their connecting flights in Atlanta. Meanwhile, I felt calm and relaxed, and took a bunch of pictures of clouds. (I would just like to mention that the food on Air France was DELICIOUS. I usually tolerate airplane food just fine, but I’ve never in my life considered any of it to be delicious. Well, this stuff certainly was a tasty treat – two incredibly yummy meals.)
This was my view.
The splotchy discolorations are from ice crystals on the window.
Again, my view.
When the plane landed in Atlanta, before they let us off, there was an announcement. “Passenger Jane Keeler, please see a Delta Ground Staff representative for a message.” Great. (Delta is partners with Air France, BTW) As soon as I stepped off the plane, there was a man waiting at the gate with a sign bearing my name and my message: “Your mother is going to be late. Please wait for her.” Um, okay. Where would I go, anyway? I went through passport control and then to baggage claim. My big ass green suitcase arrived promptly... and then I stood and waited and waited and waited for my black one. You know, the one that didn’t make it to Moscow on my way *to* Russia. Just as I was getting ready to go look for someone for some assistance, there was another announcement. “Jane Keeler, please see a Delta Ground Staff representative for a message.” Of course, my thought was yes, yes, I know; my mother is going to be late. But it turned out that this message was, “You black suitcase is still in Paris.” WTF?! I had a three hour layover! How did the bag not make it on the plane? But, they told me exactly where to go and what to do in order to get the bag tracked down and shipped to me. (Yes, unlike LOT Polish / Aeroflot, Air France / Delta delivers.) Anyway, I emerged from the pit of the airport and found my mother, who had arrived before me anyway due to the delay of my flight. Then we stood in an interminably long line at the lost luggage counter so I could file my claim. Supposedly my suitcase will be delivered tomorrow. I hope!
At that point it was after 9:30pm Atlanta time (5:00am Vladimir time!) and both my mom and I were feeling pretty wiped out, although we began our trek down to Waycross nonetheless. We drove for about an hour and a half, and stopped to eat at the one thing in south Georgia that’s open at 11:00pm: Waffle House! Our first attempt to eat at a Waffle House was thwarted by the fact that the first one we stopped at was closed. WTF? Waffle Houses never close! But apparently something was being done to the floor, and it was closed for the next two hours. But never fear, there was a Waffle House at the next exit. Thus, my first meal upon returning to the States was an incredibly greasy grilled cheese sandwich and a bowl of grits with cheese. No wonder so many Americans are obese. Even though it was pretty late, the restaurant was packed, probably due to the fact that the other one was closed. As a result we were in there for an hour. So, two cups of coffee and way too much grease later, we got back on the road and drove for something like three more hours; it was shortly after 3:00am when we pulled into my mom’s driveway. I dragged myself inside and promptly collapsed into bed. That’s 31 hours after I was awakened in Vladimir by Nina Mikhailovna, folks.
I expected to sleep for something like 15 straight hours, but annoyingly my body still thinks it’s on Vladimir time, and I ended up getting up around 7:00am. My mom and I got dressed and set out to my new house, so I could see it in real life for the first time. Mom seemed really worried that I wasn’t going to like my house or that I would be disappointed with it or something, but I love it! Granted, Terry (our contractor) is still there doing work on it, and afterwards there’s still going to be a lot that needs to be done (cleaning the kitchen and bathroom, painting over all that horrible wood paneling, and refinishing the living/dining room floor) but the house is really wonderful. Not to mention that I have a green couch (more olive than lime, but still awesome) and the world’s largest kitchen. I simply cannot fathom why someone would build a kitchen that’s that enormous. Not that I’m complaining or anything; it’s just strange. I’ve got a dining table and chairs set up in the corner of the kitchen and they hardly make a dent in the space. I’m going to use the “dining” room as my office. The neighborhood definitely isn’t the best, and I hope the fact that I’m the only white person for miles doesn’t cause me any problems, but I love it.
My house :-)
That's Terry the Contractor's truck out front.
I'll get a decent pic of the place someday when it's not parked there.
There are Js on the shutters.
Unfortunately, because of where my head is,
it kind of looks like a T in this shot.
Apparently, I live on the corner of Ass and Ass.
Luckily, I find this highly amusing.
I was standing in my kitchen door when i took this.
Thes space in the foreground is supposed to be the dining room,
but it's going to be my office. The living room is in the rear.
Be sure to note the green couch!!
Reverse shot: from the front door in the living room,
facing the office and the door to the kitchen.
My bedroom, complete with $20 bed. Yard sales rock.
Isn't this kitchen ridiculously big?
You can't even see all of it in this picture!
Hell, just this part alone would be a big kitchen.
After seeing the house, we went out and purchased some things for it: two fans (for the living/office rooms), a mattress cover, and cleaning supplies. Then I returned to my mom’s house and took a very lengthy nap.
Wednesday, June 28, 2006
My last post from Russia
[This post is cross-posted with Jane's Daily Blah]
Wow. This is really hard to comprehend. It's not really sinking in that tomorrow I'll be in Waycross, GA. Weird. This won't be my final post on From Russia With Blog, although it will be my final post from Russia, at least for the forseeable future. I will continue to blog over at Jane's Daily Blah, and I hope that those of you who have followed my adventures across Russia will continue to follow me through the Georgia swamplands and across the Pacific to the Land of the Morning Calm (that being South Korea). I figured it up, and between the fact that I'll be leaving Vladimir tomorrow at 4:30 in the morning and the fact that it takes about four hours to get from Atlanta to Waycross, I'm going to be traveling for approximately 26 hours or so. That means I'm going to be essentially unconscious for several days upon my arrival. I will blog as soon as I can, although I can't promise exactly *when* that's going to be. In the meanwhile, here are some pictures from yesterday's final party with all of the AH teachers and staff.
Wow. This is really hard to comprehend. It's not really sinking in that tomorrow I'll be in Waycross, GA. Weird. This won't be my final post on From Russia With Blog, although it will be my final post from Russia, at least for the forseeable future. I will continue to blog over at Jane's Daily Blah, and I hope that those of you who have followed my adventures across Russia will continue to follow me through the Georgia swamplands and across the Pacific to the Land of the Morning Calm (that being South Korea). I figured it up, and between the fact that I'll be leaving Vladimir tomorrow at 4:30 in the morning and the fact that it takes about four hours to get from Atlanta to Waycross, I'm going to be traveling for approximately 26 hours or so. That means I'm going to be essentially unconscious for several days upon my arrival. I will blog as soon as I can, although I can't promise exactly *when* that's going to be. In the meanwhile, here are some pictures from yesterday's final party with all of the AH teachers and staff.
The party was held in the backyard under red, white and blue umbrellas.
(Keep in mind, these are the colors of the Russian flag, too.
The US doesn't have a monopoly on the red, white and blue.)
There were lots of toasts.
Galya gives a speech while Vanya and Tatiana laugh.
No, there's nothing wrong with your monitor...
the salad really was this color.
It was delicious though. I'm going to miss Russian salads.
Glen, Jane and Misha
We always sat together at AH parties.
Brooke, Alyona and Britt
Misha the Dog
(I realized that while I have *tons* of Gosha the Cat pics, I had no shots of Misha the Dog. Misha's a stray to whom the AH feeds generous portions of scraps on a daily basis. He did quite well at yesterday's party, as he got the bulk of the leftovers.)
Britt and Alyona brought their young son, Alex.
While we had all seen photos of Alex,
this was the first time we saw him in the flesh :-)
Tuesday, June 27, 2006
My last day of class at the AH
It's strange to think that my teaching days at the AH are finally over. Yesterday was the final day of class, which normally consists of returning final exams, discussing common exam mistakes and having a party. Yesterday was no different. My first class brought cake, candy, two bottles of champagne, a box of Georgian wine (as in the country, not the state), and a bottle of vodka. They also gave me a lovely set of crystal shot glasses from the town of Gus Khrustalny, renowned for its crystal. We spent the bulk of the class having wonderful Ruslish conversations, and it was really a lovely way to end the semester.
Me, with my 4:00pm class
They taught me the proper way to make a Bloody Mary:
You have to make sure the vodka and tomato juice don't mix
That way you shoot the vodka and have a built in chaser.
Gus Khrustalny crystal shot glasses.
My second class brought less booze (luckily for me!), and we spent the class time sipping champagne, eating chocolate and chatting. They gave me a traditional Russian cutting board set, which will look nice in my kitchen, once I get the place painted. After class, two of my students invited me to a cafe where we split a bottle of wine amongst the three of us, nibbled salads and chatted some more. The whole evening was really wonderful.
Me with my 7:00pm class
My Russian cutting board
Masha and Lily at the cafe
This is what my memory of last night is like!
Of course, when I returned home I was completely trashed, and Nina M got a great laugh out of it. I went straight to bed and expected to sleep straight through until morning. Sadly, that was not to be. Now, being from the swamplands of the Southeastern US, I'm accustomed to mosquitoes. I don't like them, but they rarely disturb my slumber. Let me just say that the mosquitoes here in Vladimir are of an entirely worse variety. Once I get stung by one of these creatures, I immediately awaken and spend the next hour or so rubbing hydrocortisone cream on the itchy and enflamed areas. These guys are potent, and I swear their one goal in life is to bite my hands and feet as I sleep. Sadly, I didn't sleep as well as I would have liked....
Today we're having a big going away party here at the AH. All of the Russian staff is currently in the midst of some sort of cooking marathon, and soon we shall have a feast.... I will try to post pics of said event, assuming I don't pass out from lack of sleep or from further consumption of alcohol (which is destined to happen, I'm sure!)
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